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Portuguese Wine Search Print E-mail

Travel Notes
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ACCESS
>Fly TAP Portugal airlines (flytap.com) from New York City directly to Lisbon. Round-trip fares from $800.

LODGING
>Casa do Terreiro do Poço is a magnificent hotel in Borba (a town with white ...
Six days and more than 100 bottles into Portugal, Tim and I are once again taking a break from tasting wines — by tasting wines. We had worked up a good thirst earlier in the evening, jockeying left and right out of the saddle along the seaside bluffs of Arrábida Natural Park, and then stopped at Quinta de Catralvos, a sparsely decorated modern restaurant in a winery near the edge of Alentejo, to savor a last long meal by acclaimed chef Luís Baena. By the second of our 15 courses we're back at it.

Me: "Great wine — just add great wine!"

Tim: "New, from Robitussin!"

The wine keeps flowing and the plates keep coming. As we take the first spoonfuls of the sixth course, a sea-urchin soup with a richness approaching that of a truffle, I realize that in the last few days I've cultivated a new appreciation for wine. And while on paper I understand Tim's quest to find the next great bottle, I'm not sure I share his narrow definition of what that means.

Sure, Miguel the Mad Dentist produces a wine of quirky brilliance and uncompromising sophisti cation, and Henrique the Grape knows how to let the land speak for itself. But isn't a great wine something much simpler? I ask myself, while Tim pokes with comical timidity at a lightly breaded monkfish ball drizzled with lobster sauce.

I think it is.

Great wine is any good bottle you share in good company. In a charmingly bucolic country. While tearing around empty country roads on powerful enduro-touring bikes. Between meals with more courses than you normally eat in a week.

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