Home
Travel
Active Lifestyle
Style
Gear
Wheels & Wings
Food & Drink
Properties
Health & Fitness
People
Giving Back
Events
First Person
Timepieces
Resources
South African Golf Print E-mail

Got Game?

On South Africa’s fabled golf courses, author Josh Sens dodges giraffes, chips over a few crocs, and tries to answer an age-old question: Does springbok taste more like wildebeest or hippo?



got_game1.jpg Working as a tracker in big-cat country, Greg Austin often grunts like a wounded wildebeest to lure a lion from its hideout. He has withstood the onrush of angry rhinos and stared down hyenas on moonlit hunts. Wild elephants listen when he barks out orders. But Austin is a man of limitations. Golf is a game he has never tamed.

On a scorching afternoon, with the sun beating fiercely on Hans Merensky golf club, a verdant layout carved through the South African veldt, Austin stood in the bunker of a stout par four, beating fiercely at his ball. Behind a thorn tree, giraffes gazed on in respectful silence, but baboons chattered in the branches, and long-tailed vervet monkeys skittered by the green. Austin swung. A hippo yawned in a nearby water hazard. Crocodiles lurked in the murky shallows, waiting for a taste of something other than the Titleist Austin had sent their way.

“Not too close!” called Austin, as I started after his errant shot. “There are a few crocs in there that’ll kill you and a few others that’ll kill you properly.”

Trip Notes
got_game_sidebar.jpg

ACCESS

South African Airways (flysaa.com) flies nonstop from New York’s JFK to Johannesburg, with fares from $1,635.

OUTFITTER

>Uncharted Outposts (Read more...
Whatever his failings as a playing partner, it was comforting that Austin had my back. He was, after all, known for his precision—not with a two iron but with a tranquilizer gun. A few years earlier, when an addled Cape buffalo rampaged the fairways of Hans Merensky, scattering foursomes and head-butting pickup trucks dispatched to stop it, Austin subdued the beast with a dart. When leopards roamed too close to the ladies’ tees, as they often did on a golf course bordering a game park, it was Austin who directed them toward other meals. Rarely had I played in such a well-rounded group. If I needed a swing tip, I could ask Sean Pappas, the former South African pro who had joined our outing. And on the off chance a bull elephant charged us from the brush, I could lean on Austin for his expertise.

I’d come to Hans Merensky, eager but unarmed, to kick off a ten-day golf swing through South Africa, a country in the complex throes of reinvention. Just as there’s no forgetting the grim tinge of its history, there’s also no denying its present-day appeal. From a sporting standpoint South Africa’s story is especially compelling, since the country’s emergence from global isolation in 1994 has coincided with a homegrown golfing boom. In the wake of apartheid, dozens of new courses have cropped up around the country, many designed by South African golf stars like Gary Player, David Frost, and Ernie Els. From the northernmost border near Zimbabwe to the southern cape where two oceans meet, you can play in a stirring array of vineyards, forests, and seaside bluffs. You can tee it up in suburbs, surrounded by starter castles, or on layouts cut through tin-roof shantytowns. At resorts like Hans Merensky, you can bed down on sheets with a stratospheric thread count, then wake to bang your ball through the sun-baked bush, where a player runs the risk of becoming prey. For the avid golfer, South Africa is, in short, Scotland with sunshine, Pebble Beach with alpha predators and a prettier coast.

 
< Prev   Next >