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Heli-ski the Rubies Print E-mail
Wild West Whirl

Once a year, Scott Mellin and his friends escape for some heli-skiing in Nevada’s Ruby Mountains, where the helicopter docks in a cow pasture, the ranch is just a quick flight from deep snow, and there’s always a good bar brawl brewing in town



www1.jpgHeli-skiing in northern Nevada, like many things done out in the rural West’s last authentic places, doesn’t happen on anybody else’s terms. It's done the cowboy way. The Ruby Mountains way. Consider the helipad at Ruby Mountain Helicopter Skiing: It’s a pasture of pale grass mined with cow pies and boxed by a rail fence to keep out the white-faced cattle. In the center of the pasture, a Bell L4 Long Ranger is umbilical’d to a fuel truck. On a warming March morning, Joe Royer, owner of Ruby Mountain Helicopter Skiing, climbs into the copilot’s seat, and I join buddies Scott Bowers and Scott Mellin in the back. The bird can barely fit the latter two’s grins.

The pilot, who goes by Sharpie, punches a few buttons and the blades wind up—spinning slowly, then faster, until the blades are a Cuisinart overhead and the seats vibrate. Sharpie checks the windows one last time and pulls up gently on the collective. The Bell shudders—it’s gravity, that poor bastard, trying hard to stop the fun—and eases skyward. Then the chopper is hammering through the good light of a western morning at 500 feet over ranchlands, where black cattle look as small as chess pieces.

Trip Notes

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ACCESS

Tucked in the state’s northeast corner, Elko, Nevada, population 17,000, is the jumping-off point for trips with RMHS. Delta and Skywest operate flights, with fares from the coasts starting at $400. Rent a car or arrange a pickup through RMHS for the 20-mile drive southwest to Lamoille.

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Sage becomes aspen. High desert swells to ridgeline. Below rise the unlikely Rubies, a desert mountain range with snowfields that last into summer, when the barren flats some 5,000 feet below are scorched and baking. The chopper sets down on a 10,400-foot ridgetop next to a landing-zone marker flag that looks like it was whittled from a tree branch. Then the heli’s gone again, leaving the guys to the immense desert silence. There’s not another sign of man for…hell, for anywhere, really. It feels like the frontier.

“Desert all around, but we’re not in Vegas,” says Mellin, looking down across the ancient bed of the Great Salt Lake—this sure isn’t The Sands of most people’s Silver State reckoning.

“I don’t think I’ve ever met anyone who knew where the Ruby Mountains were,” seconds Bowers, a compact guy whose boyish grin belies his silvering temples. That’s pretty much the point for these diehard skiers and their friends, whose trip here has come to mean something more than an annual chance to slap on the Rossignols together. It goes way beyond smooth turns in big mountains. It’s become a rite.

At the moment, however, it’s time to ski, not get touchy-feely: The desert sun is climbing, the spring snow softening.

“Follow me,” orders the gruff Royer. His traffic-cone-colored anorak disappears over the ridge.

He doesn’t ask twice—and doesn’t need to.

Twenty miles outside of Elko, Nevada, at the foot of the Rubies, sits Lamoille, a ranching hamlet of about 300 people, one heli-skiing operation, and two bars. Head out for a beer from the 90-acre Reds Ranch, which Joe and Francy Royer lease out in winter as base camp for Ruby Mountain heli-skiing, and you might first get this primer: “The Pine serves food, and you won’t get beat up—or probably won’t get beat up. O’Carroll’s doesn’t serve food, and you probably will get beat up.” Until a few years ago, O’Carroll’s still had a hitching post instead of a parking lot. In short, Lamoille qualifies for the middle of nowhere about as well as anywhere.


 
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