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Go> Layover: Portland Print E-mail

Pacific Panache
Portland, Oregon seems to be on the cutting edge of... well, everything. Welcome to the West Coast capital of cool.

 

portland oregon, biking on the skyline drive
Aasum spins with some friends down Skyline


portland oregon, Jamin Aasum, a senior designer for Mahlum Architects
Aasum on a rare sunny day.
PORTLAND, OREGON, GETS SO MUCH fawning press, you start to think there has to be a catch. This year alone, the City of Roses has graced top-ten lists of the cleanest and most eco-friendly places in the country, and it has been voted one of the best places to have a baby and to make an independent movie.

If there is a downside to this über-green metropolis, sandwiched between the Cascade Range and the wild Oregon coast, it’s the lingering gray winters, says Jamin Aasum, a senior designer for Mahlum Architects, one of the city’s leading sustainable-design firms, with dozens of notable projects around the city to its credit. “The quality of life here is incredible,” he says as he unwinds on Manzanita Beach, after a surf session nearby, “though by spring you’re definitely ready for some sun.” Still, he adds, even the downside has an upside: The moderate year-round temperatures are perfect for running.

Aasum should know. The Oregon native has clocked a four-minute mile and barely missed qualifying for the 1988 Olympic team in the 1,500 meters. Still racing at 49, Aasum (pronounced, fittingly, “awesome”) has also taken up cycling, skiing, kayaking, and surfing, all of which, he says, can be found in the city limits or close by. Portland isn’t all about the outdoors, though. “We have fantastic restaurants with locally produced beers, wine, and cheeses, and world-class chefs to put it together,” he continues. “It’s a place that’s all about balance—personally, professionally, and physically.”

1. When he’s in training mode, Aasum runs intervals on the trails of Forest Park, the country’s largest urban forest reserve. “It’s a near-wilderness experience only 15 minutes from my office,” he says with obvious relish. After a quiet run among old-growth Douglas firs, grab a café au lait and the perfect croissant at St. Honoré Boulangerie (sthonorebakery.com), where a statue of the patron saint of bakers overlooks wicker baskets full of crusty loaves.

2. Portland has more bike commuters per capita than any U.S. city, and an afternoon roll along the Willamette River, with views of five Cascade volcanoes, will convince you that it’s not all about saving gas. The 40-Mile Loop bike trail (40mileloop.org) crosses three bridges as it circles the city. If you want more views for less mileage, take Northwest Cornell Road from downtown up to Skyline Drive along the crest of Forest Park. Should you visit in autumn, bring your bike for the Cross Crusade (crosscrusade.com), the world’s largest participatory cyclocross series. Even if you’re just watching, it’s hard to resist the thrill of throngs of fans cheering on hundreds of mud-caked racers.

3. Aasum steers visiting guests toward the Hotel deLuxe (hoteldeluxeportland.com), voted the city’s top boutique hotel for its mix of art deco style and ultramodern amenities. Head past the lobby’s sharkskin lamps to find the cozy Screening Room theater, showing works by regional filmmakers. In summer, the Northwest Film Center (nwfilm.org) offers flicks, food, and live music on the hotel rooftop.

The best burger in Portland Oregon at Bluehour
The best burger in town at Bluehour
4. With so much fresh produce available nearby, the standards at Portland eateries have climbed so high it’s tough to find a food cart that doesn’t use local organic ingredients. Aasum calls the burgers at Bluehour (bluehouronline.com) the best in town, especially after a hard workout. If you’re still in your trainers, sit at the bar and order it medium-rare with homemade relish and a pint of Trippel Belgian ale. Alternatively, if you’ve already showered, opt for a table and the seared sea scallops wrapped in smoked bacon or the artisan foie gras steak with roasted figs.

5. Local style teeters somewhere between hiking casual and hipster. Stand out in the crowd with a tailored suit from Mario’s (marios.com), a Portland fashion institution that stocks Isaia, Corneliani, and Zegna. For a contemporary touch, pick up a shirt by John Blasioli, a designer who has outfitted local musicians the Decemberists, at A Broken Spoke (abrokenspoke.com).



 
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