|
A High Performance Return to Classic Sunglasses
By Kent Black
What exactly is behind the American public's fascination with the television show, Mad Men? Is it the seeming lack of consequence the characters enjoy from taking shots from the office bottle at all hours of the day? The martinis and steaks for lunch? The iceberg wedges smothered in thousand island dressing that pass for low-calorie nutrition?
Or maybe it's just a yearning for a bygone age when America was powered by inexpensive gasoline, Canadian Club and Lucky Strikes.
For me, it's about the style. Cufflinks and pocket squares. White Brooks Brothers shirts and short brimmed Dobbs fedoras. And the sunglasses: strong, bold, confidant and masculine. Of course, you might not have wanted to spend too long squinting out of the lenses they had in those days.
As it sometimes happens, a popular show like Mad Men has a nearly instantaneous effect on fashion and style (although to be fair, designer Thom Browne had the reto sixties thing going on when MM was perhaps just a twinkle in Matthew Weiner's eye) that one can see in everything from food packaging to…well…sunglasses. This is a positive turn of events. We all love high performance eyewear−it cuts the glare off the water when we sail, protects our eyes when we cycle and helps us spot lurking trout. Yet, at a certain age, a man doesn't want to look like he's preparing to rip off his sport coat and start a triathlon. This fascination with the early sixties has brought a retro sophistication to the design of performance eyewear. And I'm all for that.
Except for those skinny ties.
SERENGETI VASIO $170-$220
Talk about the perfect glasses to go with that Dobbs fedora. The Vasios with their half nylon/half wire frames are excellent camouflage to hide your wandering eyes as secretaries in beehive hairdos and stiletto heels swing by. They'll also look spiffy with your Triumph TR-6. The sunglasses, that is. The tech is all in place. The Corning patented glass lenses used by Serengeti are the most optically clear of any lens material available and their exclusive Spectral Control and photochromic technologies not only adjust to changing light during the day but also provide excellent contrast and color enhancement. These technologies are built into the glass, not applied to the surface, which means they will never wear off. The Vasio's frames are made from Grilamid TR-90 nylon and Monel with tough, high quality hinges so you can twirl these all day without any worrying of them breaking down. The price varies according to lens tints and frame colors. Serengeti-eyewear.com
SMITH BACKDROP $179
Smith has always been my eyewear of choice whenever I wet a line. The same sturdy, reliable construction is evident in the Backdrops. The rectangular lenses and tortoise shell frames exude confidence. They are stylish enough to compliment a suit and practical enough to go with a pair of waders. Especially impressive are the castor-based eco-alternative Rislar clear material used in the frames and the stainless steel Italina hinges. These are the kind of sunglasses you can yank on and off a thousand times and never be concerned about fragility. The Techlite polarized glass lenses are ground to 1/1000 mm surface tolerance and thus are 20% lighter than other glass lenses while still delivering extraordinary optical clarity. Smithoptics.com
OAKLEY SCALPEL $190
Ok, so maybe the Scalpels are rather futuristic compared to some of the classic sunglasses featured, but for heaven's sake, they're Oakleys., the company that practically invented the performance look. If you really need a 60s connection, think of them on Apollo astronauts. If not them, then Apollo Ono. I've always been impressed with how lightweight Oakley manages to make its sunglasses, and the Scalpel is no exception with its patented O Matter frame material make you feel as if you can wear these a week without interruption. The black iridium polarized lenses cut glare beautifully from snow or water in bright, sunny conditions while boosting colors and contrast. The Plutonite lens material filters out 100% of UVA, UVB and UVC rays. Oakley.com
DRAGON CINCH $105
Made with the same Grilamid frame material so popular in so many models of high end eyewear, the Cinch's have the classic look down pat: the tortoise shell frames are rectangular and curved to provide an excellent fit for medium sized heads. It's an interesting juggling act to get that classic look while still providing performance-oriented eyewear that will do all that's required when the fun begins. Dragon succeeds admirably. The 8 base curve polycarbonate lenses also provide 100% UV protection. Dragonalliance.com
O'NEILL ICEMAN $99.95
Nothing fairly screams retro more than a pair of aviator sunglasses…..unless they're mirrored. But that's more 70s Smokey and the Bandit aviators. O'Neil's Iceman aviators are the real deal---tough, but flexible forred metal alloy frames, and huge 6 based PC lenses with 100% UV protection to give you that Don Draper/Steve McQueen/test pilot/motorcycle cop look. Despite the metal frames, they feel very light on the head and the templates are flexible enough to adjust to most head sizes. Oneill.com
ORVIS SPECTRUM $229
These are great fishing sunglasses with a smaller frame design for small to average face shapes. The wrap-around shape of the frame effectively prevents light and glare from blinding up from the side when you're concentration is on that big, fat fish. Lightweight and built tough, the polycarbonate lenses have a repel coating that provides anti-fog and water repellent technology. The 3 layer blue-violet anti-reflective coating on the lenses provides excellent back glare protection. With 100% UVA and UVB protection, the 99% polarization efficiency means you can see the big ones before they see you. Orvis.com
SPY TICE $139.95
Another great retro styling from one of my favorite new eyewear makers, the Tice is rock and roll retro, the kind of shades Roy Orbison would have worn while tooling a '62 Cadillac convertible along the blue highways of the Deep South. Despite the pedigree, you can take this tough propionate frames and run them over with that Caddy, and I doubt they'd make a dent. The 6 base polarized lenses offer 100% UV protection---and these serious frames will protect your face from any idly swung solid body bass guitars. Spyoptic.com
REVO GRAND SIXTIES $209
The minute I saw Revo's Grand Sixties, I felt as giddy as the moment I took possession of my 2009 Trimphy Bonneville (there may be some connection to their color and design similarities). Marking its 25 year anniversary, Revo released its Classic Collection, three aggressively retro designs that are an homage to the early days of the brand. The clear frame, blue lens Grand Sixties fairly shout Rat Pack and are the kind of hip statement a guy makes when he wants his sunglasses to match his electric blue sharkskin suit. All three vintage styles feature Revo Crystal™ Lenses (glass) with Polarcast™ technology and Element Shed™ hydrophobic and Anti-Reflective lens coatings.Revo.com
JULBO ZULU $190
These sporty-looking specs reminded me of Italian race cars: sleek and aggressive. Also, exceptionally well-crafted. they feature Julbo's new Falcon lens. This polarized, photo chromic lens covers a range of Cat 2 to Cat 3 (a European measurement of tint, from Category 0-No tint to Category 5-darkest tint. Cat 2 is considered ideal for driving while Category 3 is the tint in which most sunglasses fall). Why this range is significant in the Zulu Falcon lens is that the tint changes according to available light and not UV light like most sunglasses. I wore these riding my motorcycle in the mountains and was amazed how the lens adapted when I drove through a succession of shady and sun stretches. Julbousa.com
COSTA DEL MAR ZANE BLACK $139-$229
Named after ocean explorer Zane Grey, these top quality performance sunglasses are everything a waterman could ask for, whether he's solo tracing Magellan's voyage or guiding his drift boat down the MacKenzie river. The Zanes are reminiscent of another great Costa sunglass, the Fathom, with the perforated side vents designed to reduce fogging. The Zanes also feature Costa's patented 589 lens technology which blocks harmful yellow light from entering the eye. Available in either glass or polycarbonate, the lenses maximize polarizing efficiency to create sharp, clear colors and contrasts. Costadelmar.com
NAUTICA TORTOISE SHELL $110
These are my choice for the Sammy Davis, Jr. Sunglass of the year. You don't have to wear them with a tight three button gray suit and pointy, ankle boots….but it wouldn't hurt. These are simple and elegant sunglasses. No crazy bells and whistles, unless you call spring hinges and polarized lenses that eliminate glare and block UV rays a bell and a whistle. These sunglasses are like a Brooks Brothers suit, timeless and classic. Take care of them and they'll still be in fashion when you carry them into retirement. Nautica.com
GUESS OLIVER $65
Are the Olivers exceptionally retro? No. Are they the ultimate in performance wear? No, not particularly. So, why the Olivers? Because, lest we forget, the early sixties, despite the threat of nuclear annihilation, our hawkish foreign policy and slow embrace of social justice, was a hell of a lot of fun. It's when 'do your own thing' insinuated itself into the national consciousness. The Olivers are big, bold and swinging. Nevertheless, their 6 base lens has less curve and more space between the space and frame than many similar glasses ad the CR-39 lens is scratch resistance provides 100% UVA & UVB resistance. Not bad for fashion and fun. Guess.com
 |
Show/Hide comments
Show/Hide comment form